Spec Clutch has many different choices and every driver has different expectations of how their car performs, and achieving that satisfaction often comes with many different opinions on what to change on their car.  There are many different components to assembling a fast race car, but a largely overlooked part is the clutch. It's not easy comparing one clutch to another. Many don’t get dyno numbers or any kind of visual style points, for no one will ever see it unless the transmission is off.  The only thing that matters to most people about clutches is whether it is a “stage 1,” “stage 2,” “stage 3,” or beyond.  In this article, we are going to introduce you to the basics of a clutch and how it works, when one should replace an existing clutch or upgrade to a higher performance unit, and why you should choose a Spec Clutch over the competition for all your racing needs.   HOW THE CLUTCH WORKS
The way a clutch works is pretty simple. Your foot pushes down a pedal which pushes out a piston in the master cylinder mounted to the firewall. That piston pushes forward brake fluid inside a line that ends at the slave cylinder mounted to the transmission. Through hydraulic pressure, fluid then pushes out a piston in the slave cylinder which pushes the clutch fork. That fork pivots on a clutch fork pivot ball. On the other end it pushes the throw out bearing against the large teeth in the middle of the pressure plate. Since the pressure plate is always spinning (unless the engine is off) and the clutch pedal is pressed down, the throw out bearing is under pressure and is spinning with the pressure plate. That’s why it is always a good idea not to depress the clutch pedal for longer than 8 seconds. If you hold it down for long periods of time all the stress on the bearing can make it fail, so put it in neutral! Once the teeth on the pressure plate are pressed in the pressure plate disk is separated from the clutch disk and flywheel. Now the engine can spin freely without making any contact with the transmission and is considered in the neutral position. When you let the pedal go the reverse motion happens and the clutch is engaged once again, putting the car in motion.

When is a good time to replace or upgrade the clutch? Since most tuners drive their cars in a “spirited” way, there is not really an estimated mileage I can give you concerning the clutches life span. What I can tell you are signs of the clutch giving up. The most obvious sign is when the vehicle accelerates and the RPMs shoot up, but the car is not accelerating. That means the clutch is just slipping as it has nothing to grip the plates with. When a clutch is in good working order, taking off is nice and smooth without vibrations or jerking (unless you’re new to a manual drive-train car). Another sign is when you can smell a distinctive scent when trying to accelerate. That’s the smell of a burning clutch. Too much friction causes this and just like burning tires have a smell, it's the same thing with a clutch. The clutch is sliding against the flywheel and pressure plate in hopes of catching grip, but it has no luck and is just frying itself.

Moving away from the basics and more toward something fun, lets talk about performance clutches. Have you ever found yourself in a situation where you want to take off as fast as you possibly can? I know I have. You try to launch the car off a high RPM so it shoots off the line like a rocket. So you dump the clutch, the RPMs jump up and the engine roars so hard that it can feel the demons scream! Sounds very exciting, but there is not a lot of git-up-and-go happening. About the only thing that is being accomplished are 2 dark lines engraved into the pavement. Then you say to yourself, “Man if I had slicks I bet it would grip and pull me so hard that the bolts holding the seats to the floor would rip out!” Same goes for a clutch. If you have a powerful car with a stock clutch, the clutch will actually not be strong enough to lock the clutch disk between the flywheel and pressure plate. It will spin, trying to catch grip like when you try to take off with cheap tires. A good, performance clutch will lock all that power in and send it on down the road with no hesitation or clutch burn-up.

So what’s so great about the Spec Clutch? As for many of us, in this kind of economy it’s important to be able to drive our cars daily, and this is a very street-ready clutch to use. Many racing clutches have a fast engagement point and a stiff pedal, but the Spec Clutch has a quick engagement point and has a good amount of pedal movement which doesn’t make the ride a leg-workout. The engagement is so important. When you want to launch the car, you want that clutch to lock in and get those wheels moving instantly. Replacing a clutch is not a "1,2,3, done" job either. You would expect that the clutch is like a tire-- the better the grip, the shorter the life. Spec has made their clutches out of a material that lasts a long time without sacrificing the performance. With their wide variety of different clutches, you can bet that whatever you drive they will provide something for you.

Not only are their products top of the line, so is their customer service. After hearing what many have to say about this company, I'm not surprised. There are stories of people who wanted to build a big horsepower monster but chose a Spec clutch that was not made for that kind of power. Needless to say, the clutch was trashed within a few thousand miles. The customer service representatives at Spec understand that not everyone that purchases their clutches is an ASE Certified technician. A lot of the time other clutch manufacturers would say, “Oh well its not our fault. You should have chosen our stage 3 or 4 lineup, etc.” Spec understands the customers concern, they empathize with the customer and they do whatever they can to make it right. No, they don't just give away a better clutch for free, but they give a really good discount and one-on-one help with picking the right clutch package.

So you have to ask yourself, "Why should I go anywhere else?" To know the importance of having a good clutch really makes you think about who to buy that quality clutch from. I've read some complaints of customers that experienced cheap clutches, and their testimonials verify that you get what you pay for. For example, some clutch manufacturers claim that their clutch is a stage 3 while they slip like a stage 1, have very short life spans, have unbalanced pressure plates or flywheels, and cracks in the plates from not being able to stand the heat. If you ever experienced pulling a transmission off, then you know it’s not something you want to do on your day off or have to do multiple times. If you know how it is to be stranded far from home because some cheap part broke while you were on your cruise down the highway, you know that’s not fun either. You wouldn’t pump cheap gas in your baby’s gas tank would you? So why would you install a cheap clutch! Go with Spec Clutch!

      SPEC CLUTCH PRODUCT LINKS

	SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 1 The SPEC Stage 1 Clutch Kit features an integrally molded carbon kevlar-based, high performance organic lining that offers smooth engagement and excellent life. This lining has an integrally bonded st ...
	SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 2 The SPEC stage 2 Clutch Kit Features segmented or full faced pure Kevlar disc with steel backing. This lining features excellent drivability like the stage 1, but offers slightly longer life and highe ...
	SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 2 PLUS The SPEC Stage 2 PLUS Clutch Kit features a multi-friction disc in a full faced configuration with carbon semi-metallic on one side and Kevlar on the other. Bridging the gap between stage 2 and stage ...
	SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 3 The SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit features a carbon semi-metallic 6 puck sprung hub disc that has been the leading puck clutch in drivability, life and torque capacity. This unit is designed for street and ...
	SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 3 PLUS The SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit PLUS is the flagship stage for a high powered street or race car that requires a manageable and friendly engagement, the stage 3+ features a carbon semi-metallic full faced ...
	SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 4 The SPEC Stage 4 Clutch Kit is a solid hub version of the stage 3. The hub is solid 8-rivet and the assembly is heat treated for strength and durability. It is available in a 3, 4 or 6 puck configurat ...
	SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 5 The SPEC Stage 5 Clutch Kit features a full-metallic disc with the highest possible friction co-efficient. Street drivable but not street-friendly. The hub is solid 12-rivet and the assembly is heat t ...
	SPEC Flywheel - Aluminum SPEC Flywheels are CNC manufactured at an unheard-of .001 tolerance, in an industry where the standard is .010. This precision manufacturing process ensures perfect balance and a perfectly flat beddin ...
	SPEC Flywheel - Steel SPEC Flywheels are CNC manufactured at an unheard-of .001 tolerance, in an industry where the standard is .010. This precision manufacturing process ensures perfect balance and a perfectly flat beddin ...
	SPEC Multiplate Clutch Kit - Mini Twin Multi-disc clutch and flywheel assemblies for limited street, drag race and road race applications. The Mini Twin assemblies are available in different clutch disc and flywheel materials, clamp loads, ...
	SPEC Multiplate Clutch Kit - Super Twin The Super Twin is for street and track use in cars with extreme horsepower and torque (700-1500 ft lbs tq). The Super Twin offers near-stock drivability, tremendous life expectancy, a no shimming/setu ...